One part Eastwood,
One part Astaire.
Add a dash of Bogart.
Shake, strain and enjoy.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Broke Man Walking



Don't let it fool you, Spring is a deceptive bitch.  A sleazy pic-pocket.  Sneaking up on me, putting me at ease, reeling me in and then leaving me dazed and confused as to what happened.  It distracts me with temperate weather and sundresses, luring me to spend more time outside where I fall prey to the temptation to spend. 

After a deluge of rain, Manhattan has been blessed with beautiful weather over the past few days.  Not too hot, not too cold... a slight breeze and just the right amount of sun.  The days have been irritatingly perfect, like an overly cheerful co-worker that you just want to slap.  On days such as these I shutter at the thought of going underground to fester in the subway and instead opt for some exercise and sunlight to revive me from a day exiled to a neutral room.   My concern, however, is that as good as the walk is for my well-being, it is equally as bad for my wallet.  Evil leaps from every store window like a crack addicted jack-in-the-box.  Madison Avenue turns into a veritable runway of style... office drones all having the same idea to stroll home and bask in the breeze.  The more I look, the more I am inspired and my cash becomes increasingly magnetized towards the looming merchandise.  Eventually I have to put blinders on and aloofly stare straight ahead... desperately trying not to process what is in front of me... concentrating only on the "Walk" signs and perhaps an striding derrière.  All I want is to make it home without succumbing to the pressure to splurge on new spring attire.

Recently a
Brooks Brothers catalog arrived in my mailbox, which I thumbed through as I was preparing a cocktail one evening.  I took note of a new Oxford button-down sport shirt in a slew of spring colors that was now offered in their Extra Slim Fit.  Seeing that Brooks Brothers Traditional Fit shirts are cut along the same pattern as a camping tent, I was leery that their "Extra Slim" shirt was even worth a look.  One of my favorite dress shirts is a pink gingham pinpoint button down in their "Slim Fit"... I had to have another 1" taken in on either side.  Granted I am a slim guy: 6'1" and 150 lbs soaking wet, but still, in this day and age I feel like I shouldn't have to hunt and peck for shirts with some measure of standard tailoring.  I wouldn't have this problem if I lived in Europe, where, you know, they have some concept of portion control.


I started having more faith in Brooks Bros after they created the Black Fleece line in collaboration with Thom Brown.  It showed that they were willing to look past their stodgy, pudgy banker base and think about extending their product offering to younger, hipper... thinner people such as myself (well, not hipper).  Unfortunately, designer collaborations often come with hefty price tags and Black Fleece is no different.  The premium adjusted to Brooks Brother's already lofty prices is well out of my reach, even for noteworthy design.

From further review of their catalog, it seems that they are beginning to slim down more than just shirts.  While they have expanded their offering of regular Slim Fit shirts, they also now have a Milano Fit pant, as well as a slim cut suit.  Each garment adhering to a more streamlined and tailored look and less of their signature parachute cut.  They are even embracing the "skinny tie".  Bravo!  Its about time. 


As I approached the corner of 46th and Madison, the heavy doors of the store drew me in to its gravitational pull to critique this new fit.  

I have a love/hate relationship with Brooks Bros retail.  I admire their heritage and applaud their rule over the Northeast Prepster style hierarchy (how can you not, considering it was a preferred brand among the Kennedys), however their snooty customer service leaves much to be improved.  Despite the convenient location, I would prefer to bypass their "service" and just shop online.  As I stated in a previous post, I slide along a sartorial line throughout the week - some days rugged, some more refined.  Regardless of when I enter and which outfit I regale I always feel as though I am being looked down upon.  Maybe they are judging me on my clothes, perhaps on my baby face... maybe they are constipated, tired, bored or just genuinely hate their life?  Or could they actually be shunning me?  Not that I give anyone good cause to belittle me but lets face it, they work in retail, not in the C-suite of an investment bank... nor are they creative geniuses, scientific prodigies or captains of industry.  You're selling me a shirt, put a goddamn smile on your craggy mug and offer assistance when needed.  "Excuse me ma'am where can I find unearned entitlement?  Ohh, anywhere in the store.  Excellent.  Does it come in a Small?"  Don't ignore me because you think I have no money!  And you better tell me to have a nice day when I exit...and mean it.

I levitated to the second floor, found the lavender Extra Slim Fit Oxford port shirt I was after and proceeded to chase salespeople around the floor to ask for a fitting room.  A slim man in a suit 4 sizes too big for him finally assisted with my request and offered sizing recommedations... which I justly ignored.  

Jackpot! - the medium shirt fit snuggly without being too small.  Contoured nicely on the sides creating a clean silhouette, complimenting my slight frame.  I'll be damn.  Clench, click, swing, swipe, sign and out the door... $80 in the hole and back on course for the journey home.



There are currently only 12 versions (styles/patterns) of the Classic Cotton dress shirt and 1 Sport Shirt in the Extra Slim Fit, most of which are button down and none in french-cuff.  I pray that more of my slim peers will take note of their efforts and show support to encourage continued developments in tailored fits. While the brand is rooted in its stuffy heritage and near 200 year history, I see ever growing potential for it to gain ground among the fashionable and stylish gents who gravitate towards European labels.  This new found concentration on fit could be exactly what the company needs to survive for the next 200 years and bring some much needed swagger back to the classic American label.

Brooks Brothers is only one of hundreds of purveyors that I stroll past on my 40 block walk uptown. Here's hoping another cold front moves in. 

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