Party Like It's 1921

I've never claimed to be the most current blog on the interweb and this post proves my pokiness. In my defense though, this was an arduous task and a tremendous event to try and summarize. I constantly found myself slipping back to that August weekend when the past became the present and getting lost in the memories.

Almost a month ago, thousands of New Yorkers paid their final respects to summer over two days by ferrying out to Governor's Island off of the southern tip of Manhattan to party like it was 1921. Michael Aranella and his velvety pipes and muted trumpet hosted a Jazz Age Lawn Party along with the Dreamland Orchestra and special guest Drew Nugent and the Midnight Society.

Monsieur Aranella captivated me earlier this year by lending his victrola voice to the ambiance of Clover Club on Brooklyn's Smith Street. It happened by chance that I wound up in his company one Wednesday evening sipping cocktails in speakeasy style while he crooned through standards of the 20's and 30's. His voice could end wars and floats like whipped meringue, soft and weightless.  The notes push up through his throat breathy and muffled and instantly calming. But he also entranced me with his style: crisp french cuffs, tussled bow tie, just the right break in his period trousers and a dramatic pomaded curl perched on the right side of his head. This is not just an act, it's his passion and lifestyle.

The cozy island vanished back in time to an even Gatsby-er like state than the polo match that had been held earlier in the season. The short ferry ride across New York Harbor was both beautiful and entertaining. Saturday brought worlds colliding in a state of juxtaposed hilarity as passengers embarked for two very different reasons. Mashed together on our drab transport yacht were both my fellow jazz party goers and the esteemed attendants of Rock The Bells, a hip-hop concert featuring Wu Tang Clan, amongst other vintage rappers. As you can imagine looks of panic, confusion and judgement hung over the ship. When gangsters met gangstas, eyes rolled at each other's idea of fun.

The party held much in the way of entertainment and relaxation. From historic cars and the tug-o-war to a bathing beauties contest, pie competition and croquet, there was an effort made to not just look the part but participate in the fun of the period as well. Professional dance acts kept us entertained and inspired to challenge our hands and feet when the dance floor opened. And when the weekend came down to the last swings of the baton, a finale of jazz freeform and a street style dance-off allowed for the magic to escape the hourglass for an extra twenty minutes. Some just couldn't let go.

I'll spare you my rambling and let the pictures do the talking. Without further adieu, please enjoy highlights from the best party this side of Prohibition.

The Music:

The treasures his closet must hold! Mr. Aranella sported pink linen and a boater on Saturday. He opted for even more of a throwback appeal on Sunday in true dandy character. I've come to the conclusion that seeing Mr. Aranella in jeans and a T-shirt would be akin to finding out Santa Claus doesn't exist or that George Clooney wears flip-flops.

And Mr. Drew Nugent blasting away. That cat could blow! 

Dancing:

My father has told me 100 times that the way to a woman's heart is on the dance floor. This weekend proved his point. Those gents that could swing had their pick.

This mustachiod fella had the moves.
And all the ladies wanted a piece.
This gal was his best though. 

His face says it all!

Mr. Nugent trades his trumpet for a dame.

Always a shock to see how some are so
light on their feet. 

No shame in sharing a dance.
They were impressive with their
 ladies, even better together. 

The pros showed us how it's really done. 

Cars:

I honestly wouldn't care if I ever drove another day in my life. Unless I had one of these.

Born in the wrong time. 

Or one of these. 

Dandies:

One of the best parts of the weekend was to see men actually dressed... and not only liking it but passionate about the details.

The King himself: Dandy Wellington

Pure swagger!

Which carried right over to the dance floor.

The perfect MC for a tug-o-war.

And I'm not here to brag, but I was no slouch.
Club collar shirt, bow tie, blue linen vest,
seersucker pocket square, saddle shoes
... and pocket watch. 

A gift from my parents for my 28th birthday.

And the perfect accessory for the event. 

The Scene:

Dresses vs. Suspenders

Bathing beauties take the floor. 

Some prettier than others. 

Possibly my favorite shot from the weekend.

A performance by the Minski sisters. 

White suede brogues - yummy.  

In addition, I was fortunate enough to meet the men behind a site I admire, and count myself lucky to have been featured in their recap post: Fine and Dandy blog (Pictures 3 and 4). Not only do these lads produce a fantastic blog and an even better web store, they are true gentleman as well. They even watched my belongings to allow for a quick spin around the dance floor with my lady.

No outfit is complete without a
beautiful dame!

I was also excited to find out that the man we saw shooting us multiple times was Bill Cunningham, the esteemed photographer from the New York Times. My lady and I didn't make the Sunday Style section this time but I'm honored to think that I am part of his vast catalog of New York style.

If I could only figure out how to bring this style back to the masses. For now, only in my dreams.

Pirates of the Grassy Glen

Wednesday evening I sat on a bench at the corner of 6th Avenue and Spring street pondering the westerly boundary of SoHo. Was it 6th Ave or something farther west? The waft of a cheap cigarillo from a neighboring squatter filled my lungs before my friend and distinguished guest for the evening appeared. V/R, both a gentleman and a scholar, emerged from his office looking slightly defeated but dapper in his newly purchased purple plaid skinny tie. His bitter scowls of career frustration began to melt away as we descended south one block to the newly opened Lani Kai cocktail lounge.

We rounded the corner on Broome street and the line of salivating scotch fanatics came into view. Weeks prior I had received an invitation from Warehouse 24, The Balvenie's (free) member's club, to attend a tasting of their new release - a 14 year Caribbean cask scotch - at Manhattan's newest tiki inspired cocktail purveyor. The tropical liquor hut is the creation of Julie Reiner, a native Hawaiian and owner of my favorite throwback speakeasy, Clover Club located across the river in Brooklyn. Ms. Reiner can also lay claim to NYC hotspots Pegu Club and Flatiron Lounge, for a total of four cocktail meccas, two of which having just made GQ's list of 25 Best Cocktail Bars in the Country. In a beautiful blend of cross promotion, Lani Kai was the ideal spot to introduce the Balvenie's newest pirate inspired malt.

Image: Cigar Aficionado

As with any hip New York event, clipboard wenches guarded the massive wooden door with attitude and stiletto heels. Being an awkward loner at such events, my request for a plus one had been granted days prior and I was excited to share this tasting quest with my bearded novice of a friend. A minor scuffle with said wenches was quickly resolved but not without a slight scare involving V/R's possible departure. I am not one for confrontation but free scotch is grounds for holding fast to your permissions. The double wide door opened and the grimy urban air disappeared into the warm glow of paradise.

Lani Kai is dimly lit, just barely revealing the unstained timber that lines the walls. It's exactly what you would imagine an upscale tiki bar to resemble - a prohibition joint meets Havana supper club. After securing our initial sips, we laid claim to a table and sank into conversion of work, music, women and our golden host for the evening, scotch. Gorgeous gals in flowing floral dresses offered up delicious treats of fried pork wontons, crispy tuna rolls and what I can only describe as a blissful polynesian zepole. Before long a buoyant Belefonte with a Braveheart brogue appeared at our table to welcome us to the event and offer a compliment on my tropical madras tie. He was somewhat of a walking contradiction of amusement, a lithe Scotsman passing as a member of the Buena Vista Social Club. His straw fedora and camp shirt masking his true highland identity. I am not one for jealousy but this man has an enviable job. He is Andrew Weir, a Balvenie ambassador, whose career requires remaining in "high spirits" to stimulate desire for his brand. Roughly translated - he is paid to attend parties and drink Scotch. Sign me up. 

Image: The Silk Road of Wine

We heard of a live Cuban band below deck along with tumblers of "Balvenie Punch" offered up. Unfortunately, this required making it past the serving bar, which somehow we could never manage to accomplish. There is one thing the Balvenie is not - stingy. V/R and I enjoyed about 7 more "tastings" to secure notes and maximize our appreciation for the cask. Balvenie's newest malt is an interesting departure from their more well known "DoubleWood", swapping a rich sherry flavor from European oak for sugar cane extracted from the inside of Caribbean rum casks. The appearance is much lighter and is marked by a thinner consistency with showgirl legs - thin and quick. I picked up notes of honey, toffee and island spices on the nose, no real surprise considering the rum infusion. Once on the palate the nose holds true except with the slight added flavor of dried oranges. The smokiness of peat was present but very subtle, like the piccolo amongst a full orchestra. The finish is complex - rough but clean - like swallowing a light sugar water. I found this the most interesting point of comparison to the DoubleWood's more buttery lingering finish.

The night began to dwindle to a close as the scotch ran dry and bodies began to disappear from the Soho oasis. By New York standards it was quite early and for most of the night we were bypassed by those bearing food. If not for the villainous stares of V/R to lure in those vixens of victuals we may not have been able to even taste there delectable treats. While it might seem befitting to end such a refined event with a proper meal and perhaps a glass of Cab, we opted for a more humble, rugged approach. A short walk later into the depths of the east village, having covered topics of architecture, design and the occasional innocent glance at a derriere, we arrived at our destination of choice. Under the giant wiener emblazoned with "eat me" we decsended into the hotdog shack that also houses a secret… whose name requests of me not to tell.

Image: keaner.net

A belly full of scotch requires a bit of digestive company and Crif Dog was happy to supply the guests. Moments after ordering, a bountiful booty of artery clogging processed meat arrived and was nestled in amongst PBR cans and cheesy tater tots. For V/R his poison included A Philly Tubesteak and A Spicy Redneck - the former, a cheesesteak inspired dog with sauteed onions and the later smothered in chili, cole slaw and jalapenos. As for yours truly, the Good Morning and a Temptee would prove both satisfying and life altering. While the Good Morning was a straightforward combo of egg, bacon, cheese and hotdog, a creative breakfast sandwich, the Temptee rocked me like a hurricane of taste and bewilderment. Its ingredients are simple but strange - a bacon wrapped hotdog floating atop a cream cheese smeared bun. Sounds disgusting? Think again because it is actually brilliant; a culinary delight that makes you wonder what other combinations that rustle vomit salivation are in reality sublime across the palate. Under the jealously watchful eye of the ivy league "hipster" seated next to us we plundered our dogs with ravenous intent, fielding questions from our nosy neighbor until we had our fill.

We parted satisfied but mildly regretful of what we just put our bodies through.  I meandered to the subway with my my tasting glass swinging from two fingers thankful for my free scotch and hotdogs.  Just a Wednesday night in New York.

God bless this city.

Advice: Jacket/Jeans

Easy visual reference.  Understood?
Images: FanPop and J.Crew's favorite looks

What better way to return than to dispense some much needed advice to one of my three avid readers.

J/P writes:

Yo R/C

I'm tooling around with the idea of trying out the Jacket/Jean combination. Whether it be a t-shirt or button down under the jacket is unknown. What should I be looking for as a versatile coat that will allow me to pull off either look, not look like a douche, and be affordable?

A hardy "yo" to you my fashionably bewildered chap,

I applaud your forward thinking of the upcoming season and the fortitude to ask for advice when needed. It just so happens that I have many opinions on this subject and you have offered me an excellent chance to rebound from the depths of summer with a much overdue post. I too have been conceptualizing my fall wardrobe and am eagerly awaiting the cooler weather that necessitates a stylish jacket and a pair of jeans, finally devoid of hindquarter sweat.

There is a fine line between good intentions and proper execution. Worn correctly, a jacket is an essential element for refining your wardrobe, setting you apart from the sickeningly casual masses and hopefully garnering a few female glances. Conversely, without the right approach you could wind up portraying a hillbilly at his momma's funeral or a chunky ten year old sloshing around in dad's duds.

Most men feel forced into wearing jackets, either out of social pressure or office obligation. They begrudgingly slip inside their resented uniform like a stupefied zombie instead of embracing a classic piece of menswear that can transform them from a drone to a Draper. The true beauty of a well tailored jacket, besides upping your style ante, is its versatility. Investing in a proper jacket will bridge the gap between rugged and refined. Paired with proper trousers, you will denote an air of sophistication, while switching to denim arouses casual charm. Allow me to pontificate:

The Basics:
As with most anything, you get what you pay for. A jacket can and should be worn often - pony up and purchase a well made piece. While there are many places that peddle a vast selection of jackets, they're often meant for the man that HAS to buy instead of the man that WANTS to buy. You have made a conscious choice and now is the time for discretion.

Be on guard entering a Men's Wearhouse, Jos. A Banks or similar store. They market to an older crowd that tends to want more conservative business looks. You, my friend, want style, not business. As an alternative, try department stores such as Macy's or Lord & Taylor or even Filene's Basement that sell more fashion minded brands like Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger or Ralph Lauren. These labels keep abreast of the current trends and have various lines aimed at different demographics. Not to mention that shopping a department store (especially during sales) will offer style without causing your wallet to break out in hives.

Living in New York, I happen to be surrounded by specialty stores that I have come to prefer over other purveyors. These shops have a more concentrated design on what their brand produces which helps battle indecisiveness and overload on my part. I know exactly what I'll be facing before walking in each store. The price point may be slightly higher but it can help to narrow your focus and expand upon a garment's purpose. Take stock in their lookbooks for ideas. For instance, places like J.Crew actually promote deconstructing their suits to be worn as separates, which creates many styles with one purchase.

In the end $150 - $300 is an excellent price for a well made jacket. Think of it this way, you spend $50 on a bottle of scotch that will ultimately wind up in the toilet. Spending $250 on a jacket you wear 3 times a week seems pretty reasonable now, right? 

Beautiful fit off the rack, this flannel suit jacket
doubles as the perfect sport coat.

Fit:
First and foremost is fit. Don't even bother looking at patterns and styles until you know your correct jacket size. If you chose to ignore my advice, sirens will sound and hordes of beautiful women will laugh and throw pickle juice on you. Go ahead… think I'm joking?

Your jacket size is based off of your chest measurement.  Have a tailor, friend or family member measure your chest from the widest point.  This will give you a basis to begin trying on sizes. Most men wear their jacket too big.  From this inital measurement also try a size down from what the tape measure reads.  You might be surprised that the fit is actually more comfortable and makes you appear even beefier than you no doubt are.  Being young and naive, I was told for years that I was a 40 Long when in reality I am a 38 Regular. Nailing the correct size will instantly up your confidence by enhancing your frame instead of hiding it. Additionaly, don't assume you are a "long" if you hover slightly over 6'. Men are often put in Longs based on height ranges when Regulars are more than adequate. A few other fit details to consider are:

• One quarter to one half inch of shirt cuff should be peeking out - or if you're Sammy Davis Jr., an inch plus.
• Your shirt collar should stand about a half inch to an inch above your jacket collar
• You should be able to cup your hands underneath the bottom of your jacket when standing with your arms straight at your side. Trendier, more fashion conscious jackets may be cut slightly shorter, a feature I tend to look for in a casual sport coat.

Cuts will vary amongst different labels. I recommend experimenting with sizing before attacking the aesthetic or weeding out brands. J.Crew's 38 Regular fits me perfectly with minimal tailoring, while other brands offerings at that size are short in the arms or tight cross the chest and a 39R is required. A jacket should fit clean and snug across the shoulders and back, but not so tight to restrict movement. Be sure that the seam between the shoulder and sleeve falls exactly at the hinge of your arm. As long as the jacket fits in the shoulders, most everything else can (and should) be tweaked by a tailor.

Lastly, a word of advice on salesman. Approach them like Indiana Jones in a pit of snakes. Ferociously flail a torch at them to keep them at bay (and keep a whip nearby in case one gets too close). In many run-of-the mill retail shops I've encountered, these "experts" are simply commissioned workers trying to earn a paycheck. They are not trained in, nor care about, tailoring or style and will exploit your fear and intimidation to make a sale. Size up the salesman. Look at how old he is and if you approve of his wardrobe to see if your thoughts align. If he's dressed like he's attending the Republican National Convention kindly say "no thanks" and rethink your patronage. Being prepared is the safest approach. Know thy size and thy style and avoid being swindled into a "comfortable" sack jacket. 

Keeping cool all summer long in navy linen.

Details:
Once you know your size, next is to look for larger details of the jacket.

• The current (and classic) trend is that of the slimmer silhouette of the 1960s. Look for single breasted jackets with a slimmer notch lapel, between two and 2 3/4 inches. Notch lapels are the most casual and will pair nicely with jeans, while peak lapels tend to be more formal and are better left for suits and double breasted coats unless you have the swagger to rock it with confidence.

• Chose a 2-button or 3/roll-to-2 configuration for buttons. Employing a 2-button with a lower stance helps to elongate the lines that form the V of the jacket, making you appear taller and thinner. 3-button tends to cut you off at the chest, making you look stocky. Anything over three should be burned or donated to Sportscenter's wardrobe department.

• Center or side vents are equally acceptable, just make sure there is a vent! A center vent tends to be more American, while the side vents evoke a bit of British dandy. At this stage pocket types are probably not a concern but there are generally three types - flap, patch and besom or slit - with the flap being the most common.

• There are casual and traditional jackets. Casual blazers tout a softer, unstructured shoulder and are generally unlined. I find these more of summer style and recommend looking for a lined jacket with more classic tailoring.

Plaid with a ticket pocket, a little British flair.
And at $150, a steal from H&M.

Color, Pattern and Fabric:
• There is nothing more timeless than a navy sport coat. However, a charcoal gray in a 4-season wool is an equally safe option providing a nice contrast with the dark blue denim.

• Black is acceptable but I tend to follow the rule that black jackets are better left for undertakers, limo drivers, the Feds and clergy. Not only can it be harsh against paler skin tones, the color will not offer you the flexibility of year round wear. Black in June doesn't sound so cool, does it?

• Apart from style, the sport coat takes on the added responsibility of temperature control. Especially as Fall approaches, fabrics types can be an additional consideration - tweed, flannel, twill, corduroy… or if you're rich, cashmere! Cotton, linen and seersucker are better served for the warmer months.

• Think about pattern as well. Herringbone, houndstooth and subtle plaids are all classic patterns and will pair nicely with jeans. 

Cotton Chino - A nice alternative for Spring into Summer

Final Assembly Required:
You might think that once you secure the perfect jacket you're finished - that you can safely troll about feeling confident that you look cooler than John Wayne on a horse. Well, you would be mistaken. The next time you are out try to really concentrate on how many men are wearing jackets; and of them, how many actually look good. The key to pulling of your desired look is 50% jacket and 50% everything else.

I am going to assume that you are not a 1980's Miami detective or an LA nightclub promoter. You are a lad aiming to create a smart look that borrows from the rugged and refined portions of your manly arsenal. With that being said these few pointers will help you solidify your look and step out assured of all your hard work:

Item #1: NO T-SHIRTS! Some think it cool to juxtapose the casualness of a t-shirt with the refinement of a jacket. I, however, am not one of those people.  It looks sloppy, dated and pompous.  Some men can pull it off, but unless you live in Hollywood and look like Brad Pitt, the aforementioned douchebag alarm will sound like a fog horn on a Northeast shoreline. Let the jeans work the casual angle and keep it classy up top. Stick to a placated shirt with a stiff or button down collar (note: button down generally refers to the collar buttons, not the fact that a shirt buttons down the front).

Item #2: Speaking of t-shirts, invest in 2 packs of Hanes V-neck undershirts. A sure way to amp up your game is to nix the unsightly crew neck peeking out of your open shirt collar. By eliminating the round neck line of your undershirt and letting some chest show, it frees your dress shirt to amplify the elongating lines of your jacket. Instant de-schlubization!

Item #3: Wear darker wash denim in a straight fit. No whiskering, fading or boot cut. Simple, straight and classic will have you looking sharp. Opt for a more rigid denim that will hold the same clean lines as the rest of your wares. I recommend Levi's 514s or Gap 1969 in Authentic or Straight fit as a perfect starter pair at an affordable price.

Item #4: Kick the square toe shoes and sneakers to the curb. Better yet, give them to the dog as a leathery snack. Invest in a nice pair of rounded brown or caramel color brogues to complete your look. Black reminds me of boardrooms and funerals, while the lighter browns pair well with dark denim and are considered more relaxed. For something more casual think loafer, chukka or straight up rugged boot.

Item #5: Don't forget the pocket square! A crisp white square will instantly separate you as a man in the know. And if you're really feeling saucy, don't be afraid to dress the whole look up with a casual tie. Keep the collar unbuttoned and give off an elegant ease.

So in summation J/P here, in my opinion, is what you need to search for on your quest: a slim, notch lapel, 2-button, gray or navy, 10-month wool jacket with a center vent and flap pockets. These details along with the right fit will put you well on your way to attacking Fall in style.

**Much of the same advice on buying a suit translates into buying a sport coat as well. For more expert advice check out the below video via GQ and look for other videos on the GQ Rules section of Youtube. Also, browse through sites like Prepidemic's Piece by Piece to see first hand what a stylish jacket or suit can do with different wardrobe pairings.