Hell Bent For Leather

Image: Nigel Cox for Esquire

The photo of this jacket calls to mind the image of an ivy league professor's office couch. With each brilliant colleague and eager student that nestles their hind end into its cushions, strokes of wisdom scar the leather giving it a weathered look. One that suggests hidden experience and worldly knowledge, making it a one of a kind piece of furniture... or in this case clothing.

While flipping through Esquire's Big Black Book I came across this exquisite product shot featuring a Polo Ralph Lauren leather jacket. I've never been all that interested in owning one until now. A leather jacket reminds me of two very different character types: the adventurous Indiana Jones and the New York goomba. Between these two extremes usually lies a middle aged man shuffling along in a black version - almost always a size too big. Regardless of their timelessness as a coat, I rarely see one that induces reverence instead of disgust.

However, this Ralph Lauren design seems to derive inspiration from a military motorcycle unit circa WWII. I've become entranced by the leather, which looks to be harvested from dozens of vintage catcher's mits and has the same aged expression as Walter Matthau's creviced face. It looks so soft and inviting, I don't know whether to wear it or nap on it. The standing collar, safari pockets and calculated button/strap detailing coupled with the buttery Italian hide makes for one downright rugged jacket. It's true allure is the intangible though - for I suspect this jacket could incite rapid career abandonment and world travel in mere moments... maybe even the need for a whip.

The sad thing is that I would need a job and two others to pay for it. You could buy a full sized couch for the price ($1,395).

At least Mr. Lauren has given me faith that an enviable leather jacket can (and does) exist.

Best seen in glossy print, browse the Big Black Book for the full effect.

Also online at Esquire.com

GQ Follow Up: Products

I was asked to showcase a few products that I use during my interview for GQ's grooming study.

In my opinion the grooming market is over-saturated and tough to navigate - look at any shaving cream, shampoo or deodorant isle in your local CVS. It can be extremely overwhelming walking into a drug store (or frilly boutique) to make what should be a simple purchase. Consumer goods companies continue to over-segment and cannibalize their brands with no discernible differences or benefits in many cases. Part of the reason I use the following products are to a certain degree their uniqueness and/or affordability. I find having discriminating preferences helps take much of the guess work out of deciding. I am guided by advice and suggestions of those I read or whose opinions I value. I tend to be brand loyal but not to the extent of being close-minded. Once I find something I will stick with it until another intrigues me to the point of trial. My goal is simplicity as my decisive powers are better used elsewhere in life... like assembling a timeless wardrobe.

The One and Only: Old Spice Deodorant

Image: oldspice.com

The smell is intoxicating, mostly with nostalgia. The original scent of Old Spice will forever remind me of my father and the childhood embraces received after his nightly saunter through the door. Upon reaching the age when deodorant became a necessity, I didn't know that other brands existed. My grandfather and father use(d) Old Spice exclusively and I will also. Although I have branched out to a different scent you'd have an easier time convincing Steve Jobs to use a PC than you would me switching deodorant brands.

Full line of products at oldspice.com

Predictably Manly: Every Man Jack

Perhaps the best aspect of this brand is its relative simplicity - basic, inexpensive and effective. I recommend the Cedarwood scented body wash as it has a crisp rugged smell - somewhere between a soft musky aftershave and a sawdust covered carpenter's bench. Although my baby face is mostly free of hair, on the occasions that a clean up is in order, the shave lotion and cooling gel are quite refreshing. Both contain a hydrating element that leaves your face as smooth as the notes from Miles Davis's horn. And the application of the cooling gel tingles like a final slap in the face - but a good one.

Full line of products at everymanjack.com

Back to the Bar: Dove for Men and Grandpa's Oatmeal Soap

Recently I decided to ditch the body washes, scrubbing loofahs and separate facial cleansers and return to a classic bar of soap. Dove's new men's line takes the emasculating aspects of femininity out of soap and leaves the beneficial (moisturizing) parts in play. The Deep Clean Body and Face Bar is exactly what I want in a soap - a strong, clean scent with a grainy texture to feel it working against the skin, without causing dryness and flaking. In addition, I was looking for something slightly more abrasive (think hotel soap) for post run sprucing. The answer - Grandpa's Old Fashion Oatmeal Soap. Too harsh for the face but a rugged, grity bar worth a good lather.

Both products available on drugstore.com

Best Kept Secret: Jack Black Blue Mark

We've all been in the elevator with THAT guy - you know the one - doused in AquaDiGio, PoloSport or *shudder* Drakar. Cologne should come with a hazmat symbol and be restricted - similar to driving... considered a privilege not a right. I spent almost a year looking for a signature scent. One that few others had or even knew about. Unfortunately, I found price to be inversely related to awareness. I sampled scents from Floris, Santa Maria Novella, and Bond No.9 but couldn't bring myself to spend upwards of $100 for a daily squirt of scented mist. At a respectably $65 Jack Black's Blue Mark is ideal. A huge departure from Aqua Velva but a significant step down from the likes of a Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. The Japanese juniper, ginger essence and watermint scent is light, crisp, understated, and not to mention seemingly under utilized. I have received many compliments and an equal number of furrowed brows when asked what I am wearing. "No, the actor Jack Black does not have his own cologne." You know what - nevermind, it sucks don't buy it... find your own.

Available at Sak's Fifth Avenue and at getjackblack.com

Fancy but Worth It: Kiehl's

Perhaps my only grooming splurge - Kiehl's Facial Fuel Moisturizing No-Shine Lip Balm. It's hard to ignore the history of Kiehl's and a connection back to the days of apocatheries. Kiehl's has a storied past in New York, with its original flagship store squatting at the corner of 13th Street and 3rd Avenue since 1851. Ringing in at $9 a tube, the expense of this balm is quickly justified after a day of use. It's like a leather jacket for your lips - expensive yet tough against the elements.  While other cheap lip balms can actually dry your lips out, Kiehl's protects, heals and moisturizes.  You'll never want to go back to Chapstick again.

To learn more on the history of Kiehl's and all of their products visit Kiehls.com

Magic Elixir: Lucky Tiger

Image: Hog Mountain

While perusing a favorite men's shop in Brooklyn, Hog Mountain (post to come) I was intrigued by their featured grooming brand Lucky Tiger. As you can see by the design, the product looks like a tonic that should be peddled by a mustached, cane twirling huckster atop a soapbox. I have no experience to date with their products but am eager to try at leas the face wash. I'll report back on relevant findings.

In the meantime, visit Lucky Tiger on the web for a preview of their product offerings.

Throw in a modest hair gel (when applicable), nail clippers, a toothbrush and razor - what more does a man really need?

Hallowed Halls: My Own GQ & A

Image: GQ.com

There was no question in my mind that I was going to live in New York at some point. Ever since my first visit as a scrawny youth I could feel the city taunting me, like a schoolyard bully picking a fight. I wasn't sure how it was going to happen, but it was destiny and I knew on my death bed I'd feel incomplete and beaten if I wussed out. In late 2005 I had had enough with the small ponds - I wanted the big sea. To be embraced and enveloped by the searing towers, crowded pavements and hurried lives of 'The City'. It wasn't so much a destination as a challenge. The ultimate test to see if a shy boy could become an independent man amidst constant temptation, callousness and entitlement.

I had two goals in mind as I drove my Nissan Frontier north on I-95: either weasel my way into a major advertising agency or the editorial euphoria that was GQ magazine. I was luckier than most who move here as I had already secured a job in the production department at a yacht magazine. I figured from this position I could easily catapult myself into one of my two dream jobs. Years later, with the death of print and a full on economic collapse, these pipe dreams have become as hard to obtain as a Tickle Me Elmo circa 1996.

A week ago today, one of my dreams was partially fulfilled. I was invited to the GQ offices to give my opinions and insights on men's grooming. A chance to pull back the curtain and see the might Oz. I frequently participate in online surveys and my New York location had made me an ideal candidate for an in-person interview. For the days leading up to my visit all I could think about was how I was going to wow them with my knowledge and insight to the point that they would offer me a job on the spot. That didn't happen, but it was an unmatched experience and a rare opportunity for which I am grateful.

I arrived at 4 Times Square at 5:15, dopp kit in hand and ready to wax prosaic on all matters grooming and style. They had been in contact via e-mail to fill me in on the process and what to expect. The half hour interview would be taped and consist of questions pertaining to men's grooming and how things have changed versus prior generations.

After checking in with security, I entered an elevator bound for the 9th floor. My fellow rider looked to be delivering a rack of high-end mercandise to one of the countless women's magazines that Conde Nast produces. He pressed his floor number with hurried intent. I glanced up to see that he was headed to none other than Vogue. This was already much different than the publishing offices I work in everyday.

I escaped on the 9th Floor, magnetically turning to my right as I exited. And there it was - the glass wall protecting the giant G and Q signage that adorns the editorial office's entrance. I felt the need to genuflect out of respect, but refrained feeling the evil eye of big brother's security reels keeping a watchful eye. This was my Mecca - the Louvre to an art student, St. Peter's to a Catholic, or the Chocolate Factory to Charlie Buckets… "Come with me, and you'll be, in a world of pure imagination…"

While staring at the cover blow ups on the wall and the leggy blondes that floated out from the Vanity Fair offices at the other end of the hall, a gentleman appeared from behind the glass doors and inquired if I might be R/C. The most gracious host needed my signature on a releases form and escorted me back to the conference room where the interview would commence. I was introduced to the Marketing Director and two technicians that would be filming the process. Before I could digest the surroundings I was mic'ed up and seated under the blazing hot lights of the make-shift studio. Would one of these fellows be manning the stuffed elephant to distract me from the peering camera? The first bead of sweat began to form on my brow.

The contents of my dopp kit were lain out next to me in a vanity-style buffet as I explained the significance of each product and how I came by them. I informed them that grooming was a passive activity in my repertoire, where speed and cost played the lead roles. The questions then turned to ones of generational gaps, brand loyalties, marketing communications and perceptions in the marketplace. I offered insights as to what I believed to be the current trends in grooming and the differences and similarities that men face now versus 50 years ago.

"Do you think that men care more about their appearance today than in prior generations?", the interviewer asked. I hesitated for a moment, my first inclination to say yes.

We tend to believe that we live better today mostly because of technology. That belief coupled with brand specialization and advanced targeting methods suggests that the clear answer would be in the affirmative. Our false assumption being that increased options mean we care more. But then I thought about Mad Men and recent photos that I had seen of my grandparents. The men in both cases were impeccably groomed - clean shaven, hair combed and pomaded. These are isolated cases to define a generation, but the point is that there was no such thing as the 'bed head' look, sloppy chic, or purposeful 3 day stubble back then. Grooming often had associations with class assignment and profession but seemed to be rarely neglected. My great-grandfather working on the docks would have looked different from an office jockey, however he still would have taken pride in his appearance. In those 5 seconds before I opened my mouth I realized that men today may actually care less about their grooming than before. In some cases, that's the exact intent, in others (like select subway riders) it's just laziness and lack of awareness.

I used the term metrosexual a few times throughout the interview, mostly in a derogatory context. It's this movement that caused me to respond the way I did. I argue that men of prior generations actually looked better, with fewer products at their disposal across all classes. My grandfather sported a 'wiffle' (read: buzz) cut since his army days, used the same shaving cream, same aftershave/cologne and same deodorant his entire life. There was no concept of designer brands. The products were a utility, an afterthought... something bought for them, most likely, by their wife and yet they still managed to look clean cut and proper. I blame the 60's hippies for starting the decline in hygienic care and the young, urban money of the late 90's and aughts that brought it back to an unhealthy extreme.

I think we are seeing a resurgence in my grandfather's methods of moderate grooming behavior, especially in the midst of the urban woodsman movement. Metrosexual flair is uncalled for and a waste of resources. Designer colognes and $30 creams aren't going to enhance your look, just give you a false sense of hope while raping your bank account. The main ingredient in such products is no more than mental trickery. It's not about the label or the marketing so much as the functionality of the product. There is little a $XX product can do that a $X can't. But that's just me - and I'm no Narcissus.

A few questions later, the session wrapped up and I was handed a small parting gift and maybe the best compliment of my life. The men inside the ivory tower complimented me on my attire, stating that I was dressed more GQ than their current cover! They all agreed that the slim cut blazer, pink gingham shirt, dark denim, chambray tie, pocket square, tie bar and purple socks would be spot on in the eyes of the editors. In all honesty they could have kept the gift and just paid me in compliments.

This would have never happened had I not taken that initial risk and moved to New York. The chance to be heard by the leading men's publication and complimentary validation straight from the source is a dream come true. I can die a happy man.

Look for a subsequent post featuring a few of the products I discussed at the interview.  And visit GQ.com often for expert advice on how to look sharp and live smart.

BR Fall 2010

I am not a huge fan of Banana Republic. There was a time when most of my wardrobe was purchased from there but that was back before I had nailed down the concept of fit, fabric and design. I find that almost all of BR's pieces are lacking at least one of the three. Those that do manage to impress me and embrace these elements are marketed as their rugged Heritage line or their refined Monogram line and marked up beyond affordability for what they're worth.

I can honestly say that I haven't set foot in a Banana Republic in at least 6 months. It became too frustrating. I would find an item of interest, say based on design, only to discover that it was cut too boxy or "modern" as I believe they market it. Or I would find something cut slim and realize that the fabric choice made no sense. Or find an interesting fabric and not care for the design. Around and around I went with nothing to show for it but wasted money and increased donations to Goodwill. Even their basic sizing doesn't remain consistent. I bounced from a medium, to a small... a 32 to a 30 to a 31 inch waist. The clothes are not worth this must frustration - especially with the stellar design constantly pouring out of J. Crew. In fact, even if I had a choice between BR and Gap, Gap would get my dollar any day.

That being said I did actually find a few highlights after reviewing GQ's rundown of the Fall 2010 show. All images courtesy of GQ. View the full show here at GQ.com

I'm digging this black, what seems to be velvet jacket, especially paired with the slimmer khakis. Velvet jackets remind me of a contemporary take on one of my absolute favorite pieces of menswear - the smoking jacket. While this lacks all of the sophistication and detailing of the Victorian style, it is a socially acceptable substitute for the modern day. The texture gives off an air of elegance when worn in the right context, i.e. not "the club", so care should be given to styling such a piece so as to not look contrived. I could see myself in this trim jacket, gray flannel trousers and perhaps a rich colored bow tie at a holiday dinner party: 

The Norwegian sweater has been popping up all over the fall runways. Having a giraffe-ish neck, I tend to gravitate towards high-collared sweaters such as this. I like the muted pattern and oatmeal color - perfect pairing for jeans and a colorful button front shirt. I'm thankful that they chose buttons over a zipper to give it that added rustic, seaside feel. Just for the record, I'm not hip to the monotone vibe of this outfit and the collection in general. He looks like a damp day personified.  Too many earth tones and you just look drab:

I've been eying double breasted trenches for the past year but I can't find one that fits snuggly. I like the stark design and fit of this coat, although I don't know how it might translate over to a non-model-like, slim frame. Interesting color choice, which I find appealing as khaki seems to wash me out, black is harsh and navy is too monotone against my heavily blue wardrobe:

I have little doubt that these pieces were tailored to perfection before hitting the runway.  We'll see if they can actually deliver on the final in-store products.  I won't hold my breath. 

Bourbon & Cigars

It's not even noon and I have bourbon and cigars on the brain. No I am not a derelict, rather preoccupied by a pattern found at the clothing purveyor Southern Proper. A post by one of my favorite style sites, Dreams of Perfection, alerted me to the company and I promptly disavowed myself of work obligations and perused the site thoroughly. All the buzz over the company is for an upcoming tie pattern featuring bean boots.  As exciting as that is, I think I much prefer this design from their arsenal:

Image: Souther Proper

Ever since Easter I have been wondering what the repercussions would be of adding bow ties more regularly into my daily wares. Snide remarks and mucho mocking aside, I would love to have the confidence to wear one casually about my daily activities. My fear is that it is a passing trend and I will look back and regret standing out in such an obvious way.

Image: Southern Proper

Regardless I love the idea of a bourbon and cigar repp tie. Talk about rugged meeting refined. Southern Proper offers it in a long form tie and bow tie variety. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of icon-ladden accessories as they can be campy and have a little too much ivy influence for my tastes. This, however, is a pattern I am willing to make an exception for.

On the other hand, this is completely unacceptable:

Image: Southern Proper
Appropriate for amateur magicians and catering co. bartenders.

When it comes to a tuxedo, think "What Would James Bond Do?" (minus Roger Moore) and leave the southern garb in the closet.

For more on Southern Proper visit their website at: southerproper.com

Saddle Up Partner

In general I don't like shopping online. I hate paying for shipping, I can't try sizes and most of all I am impatient. That week between hitting the "place order" button and final delivery is torturous. All I can think about is "what if it doesn't fit, then I have 2 more weeks before I can experience the fleeting satisfaction of my purchase". Lately I have had to do more and more online ordering though: J. Crew's Urban Slim Fit pant is exclusively available online, Land's End and L.L. Bean only exist in the virtual world and I am otherwise finding my size forever "out of stock" even in the vast retail wilderness that is New York. But there is a bright spot to this process - when you forget that you ordered something and it arrives on an ugly, boring day.

Let's all give a warm welcome to The Kennett:

Image: Florsheim
"Thank you, Thank you.  Glad to be here!
Please you're too kind" 

After loading up on two versions of Sperry TopSiders last spring, this year I was looking for an equally distinct summer shoe to don as the weather starts to warm. In the vastness of my daily sartorial readings I was noticing a resurgence in the saddle shoe this season. Even as recent as last year I would have never considered this style, thinking it much too immature and costume-y. The last time I was in a pair of saddle shoes, if ever, I was most likely dressed like a show pony in a gray Eton suit laying on a photographer's pillow. If my personality of today resided in that little boy of yesteryear he would have stood up and said "Ma, you're kidding me right?! Do you want me to get my ass kicked? I look like a god damn fool!"

On second look though, the redesign of many brand's saddle shoes have slimmed down the silhouette to a more streamlined and less chunky shape. Now when I look at how the shoe is being styled with slim pants and sockless ankles, I can't get them out of my head. The saddle shoe is, afterall, a timeless prep staple and one that I am now glad to finally own under my discretion.

Not only is this shoe style a first for me, but so too is the brand. I have always by-passed Florsheim on my walk up Madison Avenue for the likes of Johnston & Murphy or Cole Haan. But recently I have been disappointed by J&M's offerings and Cole Haan is forever out of my price range. Besides their high-end signature line I find the rest of J&M's designs to be uninspired, trite and poorly constructed. Meanwhile, Cole Haan consistently churns out enviable shoes, but at a price tag that would launch a blitzkrieg on my bank account... and possibly induce mild vomiting when I got the bill.

I was feigning for the The Air Colton Saddle or The Pushover from the Cole Rood and Haan collection, until I looked at the price - $198 and $325 respectively:

Air Colton Saddle: $198 at Cole Haan

The Pushever: $325 at Cole Rood & Haan

In an attempt to by-pass the online ordering process I stopped into my local Florsheim store to check availability - no dice. While waiting to try on a pair of white bucks and secure my size I browsed and took note of many other affordable dress shoe options. It turns out I have been ignoring a gold mine of classic shoes at prices well under those of J&M. For instance my Kennett Saddles chinged in at only 90 bones! 

For staples shoes, such as a wingtip or cap-toe you can't go wrong with these well-priced options from Florsheim:

The Carleton: $160 at Florsheim

The Tolland: $90 at Florsheim

The underlying beauty of my new Kennett saddles is the nostalgic smell that has enveloped my room. I can't help but feel 10 years old as the new suede and red brick sole fuse together in a perfume that dances across my mind and makes me think that tomorrow I will relive the first day of Third grade.

New shoes - A thing of beauty.
And soon to take over my tiny room. 

So please - Rain, Rain, Go Away...

A Dying Breed: Part 2

How could I have forgotten the most rugged and symbolic prop of the film!?

Image: zippo.com

As most men of his generation and lifestyle, Kowalski is a smoker. In his western flicks, Eastwood would have have probably just lit a match from his three day stubble, but as an aged war vet he pockets a trusty zippo lighter. More than just a wick and flint, this lighter sparked the memory of his military service and provided him with a reflective surface to see into the past... to lost friends, fallen enemies and his own questionable/heroic actions. "Had it since '51..." he states, and, along with guilt and good intent, it was with him until the end.

In our time of disposable wants and fleeting trends, I wonder if I'll ever possess anything with that intrinsic value? Something that is not merely cherished as an item but serves as a constant reminder of specific events of my life. Hmm.

Being an avid runner and vigilant hater of cigarettes, a lighter will surely not be this item.  I have always admired the design of Zippo lighters though, and their Hollywood charm. If one does feel the need to light up I would surely dim my scowl slightly if I see a proper lighter in lieu of the plebeian Bic.  For a military man such as Walt, a lighter makes perfect sense as a treasured keepsake. Back in the day it might have been been as much a combat tool as cancer ignitor.

Turns out Zippo has churned out 1000's of designs for the U.S. Military since Double-ya Double-ya Two. I'd love to get my hands on one of these - a vintage Black Crackle Zippo from 1942:

Image: zippo.com

It's like something right out of Stalag 17 or The Guns of Navarone. According to Zippo's archives - "The legendary World War II Black Crackle™ lighter was manufactured from a secondary grade of steel. The standard metal for Zippo lighters was brass, but it was in short supply due to the war effort. The steel case was painted with a thick black paint to prevent the steel from rusting. As the lighter was baked for curing, the paint yielded a textured black crackle finish. During this time Zippo lighters were not available to the consumer market because all lighters were shipped to the military."

Damn it Grandpa! I know you had all of these cool vintage trinkets!!!! Why did you have to loose them? What... were you in a war or something?  Was it really that bad?  Would it have killed you to take a little more care of your personal affects... wait, you know what, it might have. Nevermind. I forgive you.

A few more military designs courtesy of vintagelighters.com:

1972 U.S. Naval Mobile Construction Battalion 133

1961 USS Ruchamkin

1966 U.S. Naval Station ADAK

And one from ebay: 

1969 USS Truxton Guided Missile Cruiser, U.S. Navy

Company logo evolution. Admirable classic graphic design:

Image: zippo.com

And my own - given to me by my parents ages ago when I had no business having a lighter. Luckily they trusted me and my advanced appreciation for functional design :

Even though I am not a smoker, every man should have a zippo. Even if it's just decorative or to light up the occasional cigar.

Check out zippo.com for additional history and a catalog of other designs.